K Bijli Singh
The owner of Iruttukadai
Tirunelveli halwa was a Rajasthani gift to Tamil Nadu -- introduced by the Rajput community in Tirunelveli -- 85 years back. "Earlier we used to make it ourselves, now we use local cooks but the recipe remains with us". Bijli Singh and even his late father Krishna Singh were born in Chokkanpatti village of Tirunelveli districts. They have been here for five generations.
So while the rest of the country knows the Rajputs for their fighting skills, in Tirunelveli they are known for their culinary skills. The basic difference between this halwa and others is the ingredients used. But if only ingredients matter then you may wonder why Tirunelveli halwa made in Madras or Bombay tastes different. "Simple," says Bijli Singh with a twinkle in his eye "Here we use Tambiraparani water".
Krishna Singh was the man who started the shop. In those days he used to make the halwa himself and thus was busy during the day in his kitchen. In the evening he used to sell it. Bijli Singh has stuck to that routine. "I haven't changed the décor or the 40w bulb. You see if I modernise people will think the management has changed. I'll lose business. I love tradition and sentiments." Even his cash box remains a box made from dry palm leaves.
How to make Iruttukadai Halwa;
Soak one kg of whole grains of wheat for eight hours.
Hand grind. Let the milk-like batter settle.
Pour the milk-like batter and 4½ kg sugar into a wide iron karhai or wok. Heat, stirring continuously till it begins to boil and bubble. Then add 2¼ kg ghee. Boil it down till it thickens and is nearly solid.
Pour onto a greased thali or plate. Let it cool and cut or serve into desired portions.
